GOURMET (October, 2001)
Top 50 Restaurants - #11 Magnolia Grill

The blank whitewashed facade gives no hint that hidden within this former corner grocery is one of America's regional treasures. Chef-owner Ben Barker, a native of North Carolina's rolling Piedmont, draws inspiration from the South without letting it constrict him. That the occasional Mexican, Thai, or Mediterranean touch seems worldly instead of trendy is a measure of his sure, soulful palate. Southern relishes and preserves, pickles and salads, and manifold vegetables are all here, transformed. Slices of preserved Mission fig look like circles of stained glass surrounding a pan-roasted duck leg. Roasted corn vinaigrette animates grilled beef. Pork tenderloin finds its true home with nuggets of fried green tomato and roasted sweet potato woven with fresh broad beans, a bit of corn relish, and a cider-barbecue jus. Karen Barker's desserts are as inspired as the rest of the food, as is the quirky wine list and earnest service. As for the eerie fluorescent cove lighting – after a few bites even that feels endearing and strangely apt.