GOURMET (October, 2006)
Top 50 Restaurants - #11 Magnolia Grill

Whereas many temples of local produce threat their products with worshipful reverence, Ben Barker’s cooking is daring, almost reckless. The menu is rife with wild, unwieldy-sounding dishes like “octopus ‘salami’ with farmer’s market vegetables, romaine in Caesar dressing with overnight tomatoes, roasted olives, and pine nuts.” But it works – flavor after flavor makes its own space, elbowing the others out of the way in an ecstatic parade. Karen Barker’s desserts end the roller coaster with the straightforward pleasure of a knockout chocolate cake or a classic lemon tart. Don’t be fooled by the unassuming exterior of the wan lighting inside – the excitement here is all on the plate.